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Just Off The Vine

The Ontario Wine Society's Newsletter

January 2005


Back to Newsletters Main Page    OWS Events    Recent OWS Events    Ontario Winery Events    Ontario Restaurant Events    Other Ontario Wine Events    Wine Industry News    Feature Article    Book Review    New Member Recruitment    Help Wanted


Special Note!   This Newsletter is available in the original "print" version. You can view it as an Adobe Acrobat file HERE!





Ontario Wine Society Events Back to Top

Toronto Chapter

Unusual Grape Varietals - Tuesday, January 18, 2005   
The Wine Doctor, Edward Finstein, will be leading us in this tasting event of wines made from grape varieties that are not usually grown in Ontario.

Icewine Weekend Extravaganza - February 5, 6, 2005   
Inniskillin is hosting the event this year with Karl Kaiser leading a tasting of their Icewine. We will be staying at the luxurious Queen's Landing Hotel. Please note that this event is sold out.

Cave Springs - Double Vertical Riesling - March 2005

Niagara Chapter

Wine of Kings & Queens at Chateau des Charmes Winery - Monday, January 24, 2005

Since 1956 the Grape Growers' of Ontario have chosen a Grape Grower of the Year - the Grape "King" or "Queen". Join the Ontario Wine Society - Niagara Chapter, as we taste the wines from the vineyards of the current and some of the past Grape Growers of the Year.

Note: Members may attend events in either chapter.

To Contact Us

Mail: P.O. Box 519, Station K
Toronto, Ontario
M4P 2G9

Voice Mail: 416-921-9798

E-mail: contact@ontariowinesociety.com

Web: www.ontariowinesociety.com





Recent OWS Events Back to Top

Toronto Chapter

New Kids on the Block

November 22, 2004 - By Dean Tudor

It had been three years since the Ontario Wine Society held a "New Kids on the Block" tasting, a tasting of new wineries in Ontario. And it appears to have been too long, since the Ontario wine trade has simply mushroomed over the past several years. Indeed, tonight's tasting held, as always, at the Tasting Rooms restaurant, featured nine wineries, but only one wine from each. Probably a more representative tasting would have been to have one red and one white from each, but 18 wines is a bit much. The number of wineries could not be cut back to four or five, but that would be unfair to the industry. I guess the OWS will just have to do it again - but soon.

This time the wineries came from Niagara, Lake Erie North Shore and Prince Edward County. Wine educator Steve Thurlow led the tasting, and the restaurant provided its usual assortment of appetizers to accompany the wine - tempura shrimp, smoked salmon, smoked duck, smoked chicken, spiced pork, French brie.

Reception wines came from By Chadsey's Cairns in Prince Edward County - their 2003 Riesling and 2003 Gamay/Pinot Noir. Reps from the various wineries were in attendance to answer queries and to give background data. We did not taste the wines blind. Here are some tasting notes. Availability is normally only at the winery:

  • Peninsula Ridge, 2003 Inox Chardonnay, $24.95: stainless steel production, clear, green tinge and green tones, elegant, Chablis-style, good detail to the finish.
  • Niagara College, 2003 Chardonnay, $19.95: woody nose, good heft to the oak tones. Vanilla and spices but not much butter or cream. Fruit shy, better with food. NCT also makes a French oaked Chardonnay and a US oaked Chardonnay, both $24.95.
  • Waupoos, 2002 St.Laurent, $18.95: from Prince Edward County, unfiltered, showing some old, dried fruit in a slightly off-dry context.
  • Palatine Hills, 2002 Merlot Reserve, $23: firm and hard Merlot nose, some woody tones, Euro-style of food wine, some tannins, good price for Ontario fruit at this level.
  • Huff, 2003 South Bay Blend, $19.95: from Prince Edward County: green bean, some pickle, chocolate, a bit thin on palate, medium finish. Bottled two weeks ago, still in shock.
  • Erie Shore Vineyard, 2002 Cabernet Franc, $14.95: from Lake Erie North Shore, leafy, dryish, pleasantly tart.
  • Angel's Gate, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, $24.95: classic style with broad sweetness on the nose and palate, engaging finish. My second best red.
  • Maleta 2001 Meritage, $29.95: leafy nose (more cabernet franc in the blend?), nicely knit. My best red.
  • Legends Estate, 2002 Pinot Noir Reserve, $28: lightish Pinot Noir component, follows through to finish.

Dean Tudor, Wine Writer and Professor Emeritus of Journalism, Ryerson, University, Toronto, www.ryerson.ca/~dtudor.

Niagara Chapter

Annual Dinner, EastDell Estate Winery

November 9, 2004 - By Yvonne Halliday

It was a great evening. We gathered for our reception in the quaint boutique of EastDell Estate Winery as we sipped on samples of their sparkling wine.

Before dinner our speaker, Tim Hudak MPP Erie-Lincoln, gave us a quick update on political happenings affecting the wine industry. He touched on the VQA stores, BYOB, and Greenbelt legislations.

Current legislation allows each winery established after the NAFTA agreement to sell in only one location (usually in their winery) other than the LCBO. However, representation in LCBO stores is difficult and often unattainable for smaller wineries. This is because the LCBO purchases in quantities larger than most small wineries can produce. Also, the LCBO requires a certain level of annual sales for that wine to ensure it will be carried the next year. The VQA legislation was introduced to allow for the opening of "VQA Wine Stores" (similar concept to The Wine Shoppe - but not privately owned) to allow wineries to collectively sell their wines through multiple locations, without the high volume and sales pressures set by the LCBO. Although the VQA legislation seems to have suffered large set-backs after the election, Hudak hasn't given up on it yet and will re-introduce it next year.

The BYOB legislation is intended to allow patrons of restaurants to bring their own bottle of wine to the establishment and consume it there. The privilege to do this will be accompanied by a "corkage" fee, to be determined by the restaurant and will be optional to each restaurant on whether or not they would like this type of license. Hudak seems to think the BYOB legislation will be in effect soon, with a few test areas already doing well.

The Greenbelt legislation, Hudak explained, is a recently introduced 10 year plan intended to preserve precious farmland in Niagara by transferring the pressures of commercial expansion to the mid-Niagara region, focusing more on the land above the escarpment where the farm land is not as valuable. A major component of this plan is to develop a mid-Peninsula Highway, from Hamilton to Fort Erie, to take pressure off of the Niagara section of the QEW. For more information on any of these topics, please go to www.timhudakmpp.com/welframe.htm.

After all our questions had been answered, dinner began, when we sat down to a 5 course meal, prepared by EastDell's own Guy Gnadinger-Harris. Each course was paired with a complementing EastDell wine, finishing with a delicious Icewine with dessert. What a wonderful dinner!

We'd like to thank EastDell Winery and its staff, especially Sue Tourgeneau, for organizing the event, and chef Guy Gnadinger-Harris, for preparing our delicious meal. Thank you also to Tim Hudak, MPP Erie-Lincoln, for being our guest speaker for the event.

"Sparkles and Ice" Tasting, Palatine Hills Winery

December 7, 2004 - By Yvonne Halliday

Just in time for the holidays. What a wonderful opportunity to taste sparkling wines and Icewines from Ontario at one of Niagara's newest wineries. Our reception and tasting were hosted by Palatine Hills Estate Winery owners John and Barbara Neufeld. We began our evening sampling their wares in their tasting room. John then led us to the beautifully adorned barrel room, complete with lit up trees and candles, where we sat down to a line up of 4 sparkling wines, and 4 Icewines.

In order to beat the bubbles, we began with the sparkling wines. Our first guest speaker, Daniel Speck of Henry of Pelham Winery, explained the three major processes of making sparkling wines, Méthode Classique - 2nd fermentation in the bottle, Méthode Cuve Close - 2nd fermentation in a tank, and Carbonated - CO2 added for bubbles, of which we had samples of the first 2 in our tasting. We were able to taste two done in the traditional Méthode Classique, one Méthode Classique with a dosage of Niagara Icewine, and one Méthode Cuvée Close. Each of the samples displayed the characteristic fine bubbles of a quality sparkling wine and was delightfully pleasing to the palate. In fact, a challenge was put forward to try to distinguish which was done in the Méthode Cuvée Close, but, surprisingly, no one succeeded!

Our second speaker, John Neufeld of Palatine Hills, explained the process of making Icewine and how his award winning '98 Vidal was a significant catalyst in the opening of his winery. "Stuck" with leftover grapes in a bumper year, Neufeld, with the help of winemaker David Hojnoski, decided that instead of leaving the harvest to rot, they'd just make the Icewine themselves and try to sell it that way. The product went on to take gold at the 2003 Ontario Wine Awards, and further took Ontario Wine of the Year in 2003!

We then went on to taste 4 Icewines, each made from different varietals, including Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Vidal (Palatine's '98 award winner), and Cabernet Franc. It was wonderful to see how the concentrated sugar levels brought out the individual characteristics of each grape. It was also great seeing how Niagara is expanding the range of grapes that its world renowned Icewine is made from.

We'd like to thank Palatine Hills Estate Winery and their staff for hosting the tasting. Thanks also go to John Neufeld and Daniel Speck for being our guest speakers, and to Robert Trout for preparing the food.






Ontario Winery Events Back to Top


Niagara Peninsula - East



Caroline

Second Annual Affair with Regional Cuisine - Saturday, February 12, 7:00pm
Let us indulge you with an elegant five-course wine and food pairing. A prelude to Valentine's Day, this will be an intimate evening with regional cuisine and Caroline Cellars' wine. Hors d'oeuvres at 7:00pm, followed by four exquisite seasonal courses; all paired with fantastic wine. Wine pairings still to be determined.

  • 1st Course: A selection of appetizers.
  • 2nd Course: Shredded romaine & raspberry salad with caramelized pecans.
  • 3rd Course: Butternut squash soup made with an apple cider base.
  • 4th Course: Pork loin shank served on a bed of sausage, almond and cranberry stuffing with garlic mashed potatoes and roasted apples stuffed with caramelized sweet potato puree.
  • 5th Course: Stacked apple caramel cheesecake.

$60 per person. Call 905-468-8814 to reserve.


Chateau des Charmes

A Twist on Tasting Icewine - Niagara Icewine Festival - January 14 to 23, 11:00am to 5:00pm
Explore the sensory evaluation of Icewine. A blind aroma bar featuring scents commonly associated with Icewine will test your sense of smell and enhance your appreciation of this `liquid gold'. Your sensory adventure is completed with a tasting of our Vidal or Riesling Icewine served `straight up' or `with a twist' of candied chocolate orange.

$8 per person to non-passport holders. Complimentary to passport holders. Reservations not required


Jackson-Triggs

Savour the Season - Weekends in January, 11:00am to 4:00pm
Relax fireside in our Tasting Gallery and enjoy a flight of our Reserve VQA wines paired with a delicious & festive sampling plate. $12 to $18 per person, including taxes.

Icewine & Lindt Chocolate - January 15, 16, 22, & 23, 11:00am to 5:30pm
With the purchase of an Icewine sample ($4), Icewine Passport holders will receive a complimentary Lindt Excellence chocolate bar - made with passion by the Lindt Master Chocolatiers!

Savour the Sights - January 22 (sold out), 29, 6:30pm
Enjoy a unique epicurean experience of five courses of food & wine served in picturesque locations throughout the winery. $135.00 per person plus taxes & gratuity.


Konzelmann

'Red, White with Bleu' - Saturday, January 15, 11:00am to 4:00pm
Treat yourself and enjoy a sample of Cabernet Merlot Reserve and Vidal Icewine paired with Bleu Cheese in the Konzelmann Estate Winery 'Oak Room'.

$10 for Icewine passport holders. $15 for non-passport holders. Passport details: www.niagarawinefestival.com.

Double Up - January, daily, 12:00pm to 4:00pm
Educate your senses and taste Konzelmann's award-winning dessert wines. Featuring Riesling Select Late Harvest (11) and Vidal Icewine (22). $7 per person.


Pillitteri

The 10th Niagara Icewine Festival - January 15, 16, 22, 23, 11:00am to 5:00pm
Pillitteri Estates Winery is featuring Icewine infused strawberries and select exotic fruits clustered on a skewer with drizzled chocolate perfectly complementing Pillitteri Estates' award-wining gold medal Vidal Icewine.

$4 for passport holders and $10 for non-passport holders. Please call 905-468-3147.

January 22, 23, 12:00pm to 5:00pm
Join us on the second weekend during the Icewine Festival when we will be closing a portion of Queen Street in downtown Niagara-on-the-Lake to present one of Canada's largest Ice Bars.

We will be pouring one of our finest Icewines from behind an 18 ft. bar and cafe tables carved entirely from ice.

Ice carving demonstrations, Icewine seminars, horse drawn carriage rides, food, wine and great Niagara entertainment.


Niagara Peninsula - West



Cave Spring

Rise of Riesling - January 8, 15, 22, 29, 11:00am and 2:00pm
Jancis Robinson cites Riesling as the Niagara Peninsula's single most expressive grape variety. See why as we taste the complete line-up of Cave Spring's pre-eminent varietal.

$10 per person. Reservations required. Call 905 562 3581, Ext. 302.

Riesling Ice - January 15, 16, 22, 23, 11:00am and 2:00pm
Niagara is one of a select few regions to interpret Riesling from bone-dry to super-sweet. Experience the culmination of Riesling in one of the world's great dessert wines - Icewine.

$10 per person. Free to Niagara Icewine Festival passport holders. Reservations required. Call 905 562 3581, Ext. 302.


EastDell

Escape To Florence - Wednesday, January 19, 6:00pm to 9:00pm
Tonight chef Gnadinger-Harris takes you local to the great city of Florence capturing its romance in the artistry of its food.

Learn to prepare Ribollita, Italian vegetable and bread soup, Naked Ravioli, Pesto Walnut Genoa Fettuccine and Coffee-Mousse Florentine.

$50 per person including wine pairings. Reservations Required. Call 905 563 9463 to reserve.

Robbie Burns Dinner - Saturday, January 22, 6:00pm
Celebrate the life and times of the famous Scottish poet with traditional supper fare and festivities.

$35.95 per person. A sell-out ever year, so book early! Call 905 563 9463 to reserve.

The Barrel Factor - Wednesday, January 26, 6:30pm to 9:00pm
The first in our Adventures in Winemaking series, EastDell's cooper Klaus Peterman takes you through the history of coopering and Scott McGregor, Director of Wines, helps you discern the oaked and unoaked taste difference a barrel makes. Three-course winemaker's supper included.

$55 per person. Call 905 563 9463 to reserve.


Harbour

50 Ways to Leave a Sweet Tooth-Part 4 - January 15, 22
Come and help us celebrate the Icewine season. Sample several different ways to use Icewine. Icewine specials including our new 50 ml bottles of Vidal and Riesling Icewine. $10 per person, or $5 with Niagara Icewine Festival passport.


Lakeview

Red Heart Night, Wine and Dine - Saturday, February 5, reception 6:00pm, dinner 7:00pm
Celebrate your love for wine and culinary delights with us! Experience two unique styles of winemaking from one creative mind. Let winemaker Tom Green take you through a four-course meal paired with wines of Lakeview Cellars and Birchwood Estate. Catered by Chef Darren Stoute of Gourmet Chef Catering and the After Hours Bistro in Niagara Falls.

  • Reception: Will feature Lakeview Cellars' Gamay Nouveau.
  • 1st Course: Red delicious apple stuffed with baby shrimp and crab meat in chipolte, complemented with green onions atop Asiago on a bed of frizzy lettuce and paired with LV - 2003 Rose
  • 2nd Course: Honey, sundried-tomato vinaigrette on a bed of wild greens, topped with pecans and Stilton. Paired with rye flat bread and BW- Pinot Noir 2002
  • 3rd Course: Roasted pork stuffed with blackberry, five spice, and cream cheese and drizzled with a Crescendo demi reduction. Accentuated with risotto tossed with red pepper and fried beets and paired with LV - 2000 Merlot Reserve and BW - 2002 Cabernet Franc
  • 4th Course: Berry Strudel stuffed with ricotta served with vanilla ice cream and paired with LV - 2002 Cabernet Franc Icewine

$75 per person, tax and gratuity not included.

Limited seating. Reservations required. RSVP by February 1. Contact retail managers Bonnie Sneath at Lakeview Cellars 905 562 5685 Ext. 223 or Chevonn Digby at Birchwood Estate 905 562 8463.






Ontario Restaurant Events Back to Top


Allen's

Meet the Winemaker, Featuring Reif Estates - Thursday, January 20, 6:00pm to 8:00pm
Come out and meet Klaus Reif, winemaker. This will be informal with samplings of a number of Reif wines and the opportunity to meet with Klaus and ask any questions or share some stories throughout the evening. We will be featuring approximately five of Reif wines with some complimentary sampling available in the early stages and then the opportunity to enjoy further later in the evening.

For more information, contact Conor McCotter of Reif Estates, 416 452 4673 or John Maxwell of Allen's.

Allen's, 143 Danforth Ave., Toronto, 416 463 3086.






Other Ontario Wine Events Back to Top

The 10th Niagara Icewine Festival

We've got a lot to Celebrate! January 14 - 23

For ten days in January the Niagara region is transformed into a wintry wonderland, celebrating one of Canada's most cherished products, Ontario Icewine.

From Gala evenings, ornate ice bars and Icewine dinners, to roasting chestnuts, late night Icewine grape picking and carriage rides along Niagara's famed wine route, the 10th edition of the Niagara Icewine Festival offers plenty for every taste.

Join us as we celebrate the release of Ontario's award-winning Icewines.

For more information log on to www.grapeandwine.com or phone 905 688 0212.


Niagara Wine 101

What:  A Niagara wine service course for everyone selling Niagara wine. See a detailed list of what is included below. Participants will receive the Wine Council of Ontario's certificate upon successful completion.

Where:  In the Niagara region at 12 different wineries.

When:  January 24, 7 pm and running 15 weeks.

Course content (in no particular order):

  • The method to the madness: how to taste wine
  • Our winetasting senses
  • Sensory appreciation of wine
  • Identifying wine faults
  • Niagara wineries: Who are they?
  • A market transition: from quantity to quality
  • Wines: varietals and blends, the big six (6 most popular wines)
  • Wine drinking consumers: What they ask for, what they want
  • The making of sparkling wine, white wine, red wine, icewine, rose, dessert and fortified wine
  • Selling VQA
  • How to read a wine label
  • Wine consumption habits
  • The LCBO System
  • Wine with food & food with wine
  • Matching menu's with Niagara wines
  • Keeping current in the world of wine
  • Wine, health and the mediterranean diet
  • Wine service; do's and don't's
  • Understanding sugar codes
  • Wine glasses, serving temperatures and storing conditions
  • Establishing a wine cellar
  • How to buy for a cellar
  • Cooking with wine
  • A tasting of Niagara Chardonnays
  • A tasting of Niagara Cabernet Sauvignons

Note: This program is limited to the first 22 paid participants.

For more information contact Lynn Ogryzlo, 905 262 4941 or ogryzlo@lynnogryzlo.com.

Cost: : $349 per person.

How to register: : E-mail ogryzlo@lynnogryzlo.com for a registration form and mail it in with full payment.






Ontario Wine Industry News Back to Top

Malivoire - "Open Minded About Closures"

Beamsville, November 20, 2004

Malivoire Wine Company announces the release of its first bottlings with Stelvin® closures. Three wines - 2003 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir, 2003 Estate Bottled Gamay and 2003 Estate Bottled Gewurztraminer - are the first "screwcapped" wines to be released in an initiative that will eventually see the majority of Malivoire's production bottled with this progressive closure.

"It's a natural evolution in our philosophy that has led us to consider alternative closures," says proprietor Martin Malivoire. "We are keen to explore the option that Stelvin offers."

The screwcap closure was approved this year by Vintners Quality Alliance Ontario for use on Ontario-grown-and-made wines. "This step forward, coupled with the local availability of a mobile bottling line, and improvements in glass choices, has increased the opportunity for putting screwcap finishes on small runs like ours," says Malivoire. The winery's first bottling was 3,400 cases, including wines to be released later this year.

Stelvin is the brand-name for the state-of-the-art screwcap closure made by Pechiney Capsules of France, and Malivoire is supplied by a production facility in Canada. When the capsule is applied to the wine bottle, pressure rollers shape the aluminum to the threads of the glass bottle. At the same time, the flavour-neutral, stable polyethylene liner creates the seal over the bottle's opening.

"Industry research suggests that the biggest advantages of screwcaps are the consistency and predictability they bring to the wine the consumer tastes," says Malivoire winemaker Ann Sperling. Extensive quality testing indicates that aging is more controlled and measured in wines closed with screwcaps than the same wines closed with traditional cork. Screwcapped wines retain their aromatics longer, while complexity can continue to develop. Tasters have consistently noted that fruit levels hold better in wines with screwcaps, and wines taste "fresher" longer.

Malivoire's plan calls for Stelvin closures for the wines that they would expect to be consumed within five years. Their flagship Moira Vineyard wines will be bottled with natural cork, pending the results of Malivoire's own research on the closures' affect on aging.






Feature Article Back to Top

Willow Springs Winery

By Glen Siegel

There's good news for Toronto area wine-lovers who don't always have the time or energy to make the day trip down to Niagara for a winery visit. Willow Springs Winery is just off Markham Road north of the Stouffville Sideroad. It's a pleasant 25 minute country drive through the Oak Ridges Moraine to get there from my neighbourhood at Don Mills and Steeles.

Willow Springs is owned by Mario and Julie Testa but most times I have been there the tasting counter has been manned by Grant McLeod.

Willow Springs is further north than any other grape winery in Ontario. The Toronto area map in the Wine Council guidebook had to be extended to accommodate them. Due to their position, they grow some unusual grapes and make some interesting wines. Currently, Willow Springs' eleven acres has Vidal, Baco Noir, Geisenheim, Lucy Kuhlman, Seyval Blanc, Frontenac, Sabrevois, Chardonnay and Gamay. All but the last two are hybrids instead of vinifera.

These vines were planted in 1993 but have been hurt by a couple of severe winters. In 2001, they harvested ten tons of grapes to produce 6,000 litres or 8,000 bottles of wine.

The 53 rows of vines were tiled in 1998 to reduce the ground water. According to Mario, Willow Springs tries to avoid spraying the grapes. They don't use pesticides and spray fungicides only when necessary.

The current building was started in 1999 and opened in 2000. Since then, Willow Springs has hosted a number of events including dinner clubs, the Corvette Club and a Classic Motorcycle Club.

Michael Traynor is their winemaker. He is also the wine maker at Huff Estates and has his own label, Coyote Run, which he makes at Willow Springs. When you read their reasonably extensive wine list you realize they must bring in grapes. Currently they source their grapes from Kevin Watson in Niagara. Their wines, where appropriate, are barrel-aged in French and American Oak. Small bottlings, like their new Testa Meritage 2002 Limited Reserve, are bottled by hand using real corks. Other wines are bottled at another area winery. Many of these wines are closed with synthetic corks.

As members of the Vintners Quality Alliance, Willow Springs can use the "Meritage" designation on their Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Merlot blends. The Testa 2002 is a limited production of 600 bottles. Most of the Willow Springs wines are VQA, but not all the hybrids are recognized for VQA status.

In the August 7th Vintages release, the Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2002 and the Cabernet Franc 2002 were both listed. Earlier this spring, Baco Noir was named a "Wine of the Week" by Tony Aspler.

The other two hybrid-based wines that I've tasted are the Geisenheim and the Lucy Kuhlman. Geisenheim is an attempt to produce a cold weather resistant Riesling style of wine. I found it to be a light and refreshing wine that would be fine with lighter fish dishes. The 2000 was a more flavourful wine than the 2000, but I would describe them as a Riesling-light.

The Lucy Kuhlman grape is similar in parentage to Marechal Foch but very different in flavour. It would be a great wine to add into a blind tasting. When I blind tasted it at the winery in one of the standard tasting glasses, my first guess was Pinot Noir. After that, I went through the wines that it wasn't. It wasn't Merlot, or Cab. Sauv, or Cab Franc..... Finally, Grant stopped laughing at me and told me. I bought several and you can see in my tasting notes below, when I tasted at home with the wine in a Burgundy glass, my notes could also be describing a Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine Notes:

  • Apple Wine 1999: Willow Springs is moving away from fruit wines and no longer produce Apple Wine. A friend of mine came in to pick up several bottles and described it as "Brilliant!!! Superb!!!"
  • Chardonnay 2002 - Barrel Fermented, VQA Ontario - (LCBO 692624) - Barrel fermented for 5 months in French Oak - The toasted oak flavours come through but they are supporting the grapes, not overwhelming them. Fresh and crisp, I really liked this Chardonnay.
  • Lucy Kuhlman 2001 - A medium dark red with dark red cherry on the nose with cedary notes in the background. The flavour of dark sour cherries comes through the light tannins with a medium long finish. This wine is between a Pinot Noir and a Cabernet in weight.
  • Baco Noir 2001 - A brick red wine, there is black raspberry and leather on the nose. Red currants and other sour fruit flavours with the light tannins and medium acidity means that this is a wine for drinking now.
  • Cabernet Franc 2002 VQA Ontario - (LCBO 692673) - This dark ruby to purple wine is fragrant from the moment you pull the cork. It's full but not overpowering bouquet has sour cherries backed by woody notes with nice follow through in the flavours. The tannins will let this wine age for a year or so, but it is drinkable now.
  • Testa Limited Reserve 2002 Meritage, VQA Niagara - This is their flagship wine. It's in a taller bottle with an elegant gold-on-gold label. This wine is a Cab. Sauv./Cab. Franc/Merlot blend. The deep garnet wine has that wonderful Bordeaux blend bouquet with both mushroom and cedar in the background. The flavours are currently a little overpowered by the tannins and mouth-watering acidity but the back label says to age this to 2008 to 2010. I'm not sure I can wait that long!





Book Review Back to Top

A Matter Of Taste

Reviewed by Dean Tudor

This book of inspired seasonal menus with wines and spirits to match is by Lucy Waverman and James Chatto, both senior editors for "Food & Drink", published by the LCBO. Waverman is also a food writer with the Globe and Mail, while Chatto also writes about food and drink for Toronto Life.

This is seasonal entertaining at its finest for us in Canada. The book has 175 or so recipes, divided by season, with five or more entertaining menus and 2 to 3 "fast and fresh" family menus in each section. Themes menus include holidays (Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Years), cooking for a crowd, a book club menu, a bistro dinner, a ski chalet, a summer gardening party, a spring brunch. There are four or so dishes per menu, with lots of wine choices for each dish and each menu. No specific producers are mentioned, just grapes or regions.

Scattered about are "Food Tech" or "Wine Tech" pages, such as the ones on tannins, oak, chocolate, and brining. The index covers the wines and the foods (ingredients) so that you can check out what goes with Baco Noir or Valpolicella. Photos of finished preps accompany many of the recipes.

This is a cookbook, a food book, a primer to wines and spirits, and a guide to menus and entertaining.

Audience and level of use: upscale Canadians, schools of hospitality, libraries.

Some interesting or unusual recipes: vegetable croustade, spiced yellow tomato soup, slow-cooked lamb with pecorino, sticky toffee pudding.

What I don't like about this book: the publicity material makes a big thing about Chatto recommending a single-malt scotch to pair with a chocolate truffle (indeed, some promotion items even got the chocolate dessert wrong!). But, try tracking down the reference to single-malt scotch: you'll need to run through a few entries in the index before you can find it.

What I do like about this book: Chatto does a nice job in covering the basic principles of wine and food matching.

Quality/Price Ratio: 89.

Dean Tudor, Wine Writer and Professor Emeritus of Journalism, Ryerson, University, Toronto, www.ryerson.ca/~dtudor.






New Members Recruitment Back to Top

This is a reminder to all members, and especially those who have joined in the last year or so, that we have this program in effect.

Here's how it works.

Every new member, whether referred or not, will be entitled to one free tasting event.

An existing member will be entitled to one free tasting event for every two new members that they refer.

So, here's an opportunity for you to help us promote the Society. Make sure that the people who you refer note your name on the form when they submit their application.

Potential members can apply on-line at www.ontariowinesociety.com. Applications can also be picked up at Ontario wineries and some Ontario restaurants and business. See our web site for a list. Applications are also available at major Ontario food and wine events. Or, contact us and we will send you an application form.

Memberships can also be given as gifts.

The total membership in the Ontario Wine Society, which includes the Toronto and Niagara Chapters, is at an all-time high of 320 and growing.






Help Wanted Back to Top

The Ontario Wine Society needs an external auditor to audit our financial records. If you are qualified, or know someone who is, please contact us asap.



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